(André P. Joyce Collection)
(Edited by Helen Séguin)
Vol. L., No. 13,958 Toronto,
Saturday, the 17th november 1894. Price five cents
Buckingham.
The mighty power of the " Rivière du Lièvre "
- A brief description by H. T. Hazen, C.I.
Buckingham as a town owes its existence to the lumber industry practiced extensively here since the beginning of the 19th century. The natural beauty and the industrial potential of this region was a factor in attracting pioneers to settle their businesses here.
The population of the town is about 3,500 which includes the basin of the river "Lièvre" being a portion of the town at the C.P.R. station. Being situated on a hill, the town has the advantage of having natural drainage for its sewers. The town Council has just completed a splendid waterworks system at a cost of 55 000 $. The Main street follows the serpentine course of the river which tends to give it a false impression of having a scattered appearance. Even though it is not compact, its construction is as closely built up as most average towns. The other streets, perpendicular to Main street, are large and generally very clean and neat. The Council has adopted a permanent improvement system in hopes that within a few years the main streets will be paved.
The citizens’ go-ahead and enterprising spirits can be seen on all sides, and the Council is in close touch with the people in this respect. The franchise for lighting the town has been granted to the Electric Railway Company for 20 years, and it is confidently expected the town will be illuminated early in December, the price of the lights to be fixed at stated intervals. The waterworks system is a most complete one, and will supply a population of 50,000. The power house is situated at the upper falls in the town, and is equipped with the best of machinery. The water is supplied to the people upon the local improvement plan, and each lot, whether occupied or not, is assessed for the water at a fixed rate upon the value of the land. There are nearly six miles of pipes and 430 services and 47 hydrants, with 2,000 feet of hose; every part of the town can be covered. The quality of the water is excellent, and it has superseded the wells.
The height of its location above the Ottawa River gives the people pure air at all times, and as a result, the town is very healthy and they are seldom troubled with any pulmonary diseases.
For this year the members of the Council are : James Martin, Mayor; East Ward, Charles W. Pearson, Alexander MacLaren, John E. Vallillée; North Ward, John Cosgrove, Alphonse Labelle, Magloire Fauvelle; South Ward, G.L. Parker, S.P. Franchot, Théophile Ross; Secretary-Treasurer, F.M. Gorman; Valuators, Michael Morin, Louis Desrochers, Adam Malette, with Mathew M. Palmer as Clerk.
The assessed value of the town is 463,845 $ and the rate for municipal purposes is 11 mills on the dollar.
The total debt of the town, including the bonds for waterworks is 60,862 $, but as the water rates are fixed so as to provide not only for the interest, but also for the principal of the waterworks debentures of 50,000 $, that portion of the debt should be deducted.
The community is a peaceful one, and the duties of the Chief Constable, Mr. Albert Storey, and his assistant, J.C. Cummings, are not arduous. The fire brigade is composed of 61 volunteer members, divided into three companies. His Worship the present Mayor, James Martin is Chief, W.J. Martin is Secretary and J. Paquette is Treasurer. No. 1 company has A. Labelle as Captain and F.D. Daoust as assistant; No. 2, M. Morin, Captain, D. Brisebois, assistant; No. 3, O. Matte, Captain, and J. Beaulne, assistant.
Besides the two immense lumber mills, the James MacLaren Company and Ross Brothers, there are also several other large industries located here, among which might be mentioned the Pulp Mill, Paquette’s Furniture Factory, and Joannis’ Sash and Door Factory, while at " The Basin ", which is part of the town practically, there are Wilson’s Flour and Woolen Mills, Buckingham Sash and Door Factory, Buckingham Phosphate Milling Co., and the Gibbs-Franchot-MacLaren Co., Ltd., Acid Works, which is the only one of its kind on the continent. By a process of electricity conceived, born and matured here by the gentlemen who form the company, they manufacture chlorate of potash, soda and baryta, and are at present making arrangements to greatly extend their works.
The "du Lièvre" River runs through a pine region, and vast forests of spruce are waiting for the woodsman’s ax and the pulp mill and paper mill to put it into the markets of the world. There is sufficient spruce standing on the banks of this river to supply the largest paper mill in the world at the present time for a hundred years, so that it might be truthfully stated that the supply is inexhaustible.
There is still a great quantity of pine standing, and the care taken of the limits owned by the two great lumbering firms of the late James MacLaren and Ross Bros. has resulted in a new growth, which is now almost ready for the market.
The splendid water-powers and quantities of spruce which can be brought to the mills at a trifling expense should prove a great inducement for establishing a paper mill at this place. The estate of the late James MacLaren have, during the last two years, completely renovated their mills, and they are now equipped with the most improved machinery for the manufacture of lumber. They made an exhibit of deal and dimension timber at the World’s Fair at Chicago last year, which attracted great attention, and secured the highest award. Five hundred men are employed year round in the lumber business of the town, and it is to this fact that the town owes its existence and its present prosperity and condition.
The Water Powers
These are certainly the greatest factors in the future prosperity of Buckingham. As has already been stated, these powers are so distributed that their full and immense power can be developed at a minimum of cost and fully utilized to the best advantage. Part of these powers are owned by the estate of the late James MacLaren, others of them by David and Alexander MacLaren, and Ross Bros. have a share of the fall at their mill and each of these firms owns the land adjacent, affording ample room upon the banks for any kind of an industry.
At a height of 70 feet, Dufferin Falls will be able to produce power estimated at 72,000 horse powers. This power is the one used by Ross Bros. and the estate of the late James MacLaren to work their saw mills situated on both sides of the falls.
The estate of James MacLaren, having more power than needed, are ready to offer exceptional terms to satisfy the needs of small and large firms of undetermined amounts. The estate also owns the adjacent lands as well as the water rights at High Falls, which is located at 22 miles from Buckingham and is discussed a little further in his article. The height of these falls including the cascade immediately above and another about 200 feet down the stream below the falls is 180 feet, which will give 187,110 horse-power.
Another factor in the importance of this town in the past, at the present, and will be more so in the future, is the mineral wealth of this neighborhood, which is simply beyond computation or calculation. Being more than 80% pure, phosphate here is the richest in the world. Large quantities of mica and feldspar are sent from here, the latter being the component of fine china.
Very rich deposits of graphite are found in the neighborhood, and a most successful mine is being worked about 5 miles west of here at what is familiarly known as Graphite City. Asbestos is also found in paying quantities, and is being developed to a limited extent. Gold is also found, but not in sufficient quantities to make it an object of working the rock; although some samples have been evaluated up to 700 $ a ton.
Of the most valuable and best known phosphate mines are the; Emerald, British, North Star, Ross Mountain and High Rock. The furthest from the town is High Rock situated at only about 12 miles away.
Among the mica mines, the most valuable is the Villeneuve. It is from this mine that is taken the white mica which adds to the beauty of the coal stoves. This mica is almost opaque, and is the most extensive bed of that quality known in the world. The whole of the mines which have been developed are within easy reach of the river, and the material is taken down to the town on barges and loaded on to the cars there.
There are some very fine stretches in the valleys and on the lower sides of the hills, and so rich is the soil that a plot of 30 acres, which is considered a small piece of land, is yielding a profitable living to the farmer. A man that has 100 acres of that kind of soil can become rich if he is willing to work.
The hilly nature of the country and the many little creeks of spring water that flow through it make it an excellent grazing country, and the farmers are beginning to turn their attention more to dairying. It is stated upon very high authority that the quality of the grass which grown here is of the richest nature, and that cheese made in this district has that rich flavor so much sought after in the markets of the old country. There are three cheese factories in this immediate neighborhood now, and another, with a creamery attached, will be ready for the opening of the spring season.
The Churches
The community’s relative strength can be seen by its four churches. The Roman Catholic Church, administered by the parish priest Reverend Michel, is a magnificent building of blue limestone, with white cut sandstone for corners. It gives a good idea of the architectural style of the churches in this province.
The Rev. C.A. Doudiet ministers to the spiritual wants of the Presbyterians, who are the next most numerous body here.
The Reverend George Richardson looks after the Baptists, and the Reverend Basil T. Marricott is in charge of the Anglicans. The Episcopalians are at present without a church, but arrangements are about completed to build a new one in the spring.
The schools
There are three schools in this town. The convent or girls’ school is under the direction of the Gray Nuns, with Sister Woods as Mother Superior.
The boys’ school is under the direction of the Christian Brothers, with Brother Jean Baptist and three assistants in charge.
The Protestant school is being directed by the Principal Mr. L.D. Von Iffiland.
Social Life
There are a number of societies in active operation, and the social element of the town is well looked after by the young ladies and gentlemen. There is in course of erection a large skating rink, which will afford ample room for skating and hockey.
The Buckingham Trotting and Athletic Association have just completed a half-mile regulation track, on which they are sparing no expense to make it one of the most complete and speedy in Canada. The President of the Association is Alexander MacLaren; Vice-President, George Bothwell, and Secretary O.L. McLeod. These officers, with William McIntosh and J.A. Bernardine, form the Board of Directors.
The MacNaughton House
Far from being an hotel, this house accommodates voyagers as well as business men. She has the reputation of being a clean and comfortable place including excellent meals.
The Ontario Bank
The Ontario Bank, one of the oldest monetary institutions of Canada, established a branch in Buckingham in September of 1892, and presently occupies a centralized brick building. With white oak counters, brass railings and large windows enlivening this building, depicts the suitability of this place of business. The merchants, needing such an institution even though the depression, have helped the bank to prosper with the many deposits in savings accounts.
McCallum & Lahaie
It is the main General Store of the town. The existing photos do not justify the outlay of this store nor the quantity of merchandise it contains. The wool and cotton sold here could easily be measured by the cord, which gives an idea of the quantity of the products found here. Even though they were one of the last ones to settle in this town, their good judgment, wise purchases, as well as listening to the needs of the people, has permitted them to build a profitable business. Their specialty in the best categories of dry goods as well as dealing directly with the manufacturers allows them to have competitive prices in this town as well as in the neighboring towns, thus securing their prosperity. For the coming year, they propose to build a new store or to rent one, because of their spacious needs. This store belongs to two young men who have great confidence in the future of the town.
J.A. Bernardin
His business includes dry goods, groceries, supplies and alcoholic beverages, and is conveniently divided into sections keeping separate each class of product. Established by his father 35 years ago, it is one of the oldest businesses in Buckingham. Following in his father’s steps, he was able to continue his profits with the help of some improvements and his good judgment. The people here appreciate his efforts to please them by offering them the best quality possible at the lowest possible price.
Tourist attraction
Before the navigation opening in spring, The Electric Railway Company expect to have their railroad going. It will be branched to the C.P.R. at the basin of the Lièvre as well as with the Outaouais River at the Park Landing. Once completed, this railroad will form an junction between the C.P.R., the Outaouais River and a part of the Lièvre beyond the town. This way, a picturesque one day visit from Ottawa will be accessible. Using either the C.P.R. or the Ottawa boat in the morning, excursionists will be able to reach the Lièvre boat via the electric railway. The trip from Ottawa by boat as well as by electric railway will run along the shore of the Rivière du Lièvre giving tourists the chance to see the many water falls as well as the beautiful scenes that characterize this romantic area.
A changing panorama will be presented as the wagon gradually climbs the 300 feet elevation difference from the Outaouais River at Landing. At the Landing, a transfer to one of the comfortable small boats of Capt. Bothwell or to a new boat will be possible. After a brief moment, the excursionists will be en route towards, what it considered by many, one of the most beautiful rivers of the continent. After almost 14 miles of traveling, the boat will arrive at the locks of Little Rapids or Poupore, as is called the Post Office. The locks were built to allow boats to get to High Falls and bring back the phosphate without danger. This construction permits to raise the water level 12 feet giving boats access to the falls at the base of High Falls. A short portage around the falls will permit you to reach another level of 20 feet where another boat will take you to Notre Dame du Laus. The Captain will announce the arrival at High Falls. Two or three hours will be passed here and the return trip by boat or railway will be assured the same night, making this trip a beautiful one day excursion. If you can stay for more than one day, you will have plenty of occasions to do all kinds of sports in all seasons.
For now and until the end of the railway construction, the public is being transported to and from the station by the stage coach services of Charles W. Pearson, who deserves credit for his preoccupation of his passengers’ comfort.
N.B. The small electric train mentioned in this article was never achieved. This project’s aim was to have a small electric railway system accessible throughout the town.